Cafe Bar Ortega is just by the river behind the Museum of Costume and Customs. It's a family run affair that's been there for years and serves the Spanish standards, with its tapas lined along the bar in their little glass fridge. This is old school Malaga at its purest, this bar being typical of most in provincial Andalucia, the very backbone of the nation. It's a million miles from the smart coffee shops and shiny gastro bars, franchise burgers and steakhouses. This is a slice of pure Málaga, unpretentious, absurdly cheap relative to elsewhere in town, and full of local colour. You're close to town, and this bar is a remnant of what Málaga was like before it became the hottest tourist destination in the southern Mediterranean. It won't be to everyone's taste and the staff may be a bit more brusque than in other places, but that's all part of the real Málaga. Good honest simple tapas and hot dishes, no sauces, no weird garnishes and honestly priced. Grab a bit of old-school Malaga before it finally disappears from the old town.
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