In a town where the tapa has been reinvented and spun into a wild variety of gastronomic dramas, its good to know you can still find the old-school variety, in an old-school lively cheerful bar, full of locals, cold beer and noise. The great virtue of Andalucian cuisine before the gastro revolution of the last ten years was its simplicity, the purity and quality of the prime ingredient, and its direct form of preparation. While there's nothing wrong with tapas that look like exhibits in a modern art gallery, this place reminds one of how good the originals, the old masters, can be. They serve a jolly good vermouth too.